One chef’s love of salt

From the Gulf of Mexico to dining tables

I’ve lived in Panama City, on and off, for many years. My family has lived here since the 1920’s. I have a great love and appreciation for the natural beauty and abundant history in this area. During the Civil War, Panama City, and many other areas along the Florida Gulf Coast, were major providers of salt to the Confederate cause. The St. Andrew Bay Saltworks was one of the largest producers of salt in the South from 1861 to 1865.

Salt 1I submerged myself into the history of salt after a life changing experience. My brother died in August of 2013 of pancreatic cancer. My wife and I had traveled to see him in San Francisco during his last days of battling the disease.  While there, we purchased a little tin of “flake sea salt”. We lost my brother Peter the next day.

Weeks later I showed the salt to one of my classes, and the first student I handed it to dropped it on the floor.  I was just kind of stunned, not mad at all – but it somehow inspired me to make my own salt.

I really love to make things and want to know how things are made and there was only on ingredient that I needed:  I needed seawater.

I waited for high tide to get the freshest batch of Gulf Water… I waded into the surf and filled up a dozen gallon jugs.  It was hard work, at 8 pounds per jug it was nearly 100 pounds worth of sea water. I took it back  to the college and let it settle for a day, then filtered it into a large pot and brought it to a boil to sterilize it and then slowly reduce it.

Eventually, the sea water will turn into brine and after a while, when the water can no longer hold the salt, crystals start to form. The crystals are harvested and dried continuously until all of the salt has been removed.  My first batch of salt was beautiful, flaky and soft, and it tasted nothing like table salt or kosher salt.  It had flavor, it wasn’t a plain, harsh saltiness, it had a depth that is hard to put into words, and there was no turning back.

My wife and I researched the history of salt making and the civil war.  At each turn we have found interesting stories and artifacts.  We began to experiment with smoking the salt, and found that 12 hours with pecan wood chips and shells gave the flavor we wanted.  We will soon have a blend with Ghost Peppers and another with Lime.

As a chef I understand the value of ingredients. I have been working with them every day for the last 25 years. Slight variations in composition and taste can make a huge difference in the outcome of a meal. As culinary arts professor at Gulf Coast State College I teach many classes, from our foundational level Basic Food Preparation to Advanced Pastry, Nutrition, and Sanitation & Safety. I try to teach each student to appreciate the ingredients they use and to develop their palate so they can recognize differences. Our salt is what is known as a “finishing salt”, it is meant to be used on food prior to eating, not as part of the cooking process.  It crumbles easily over food, and has a pleasing soft bite.  Here at Gulf Coast Saltworks, we also smoke our salt using pecan wood, a process which usually takes 12-15 hours.  The smoked salt adds an amazing finish to everything from a baked potato to a piece of chocolate.

Salt 3

What started as an experiment has now grown into a business venture. We decided to use the profits to help some of our students join us on a culinary field trip to Italy in May of 2014. The trip is open to all GCSC students.  We will spend 12 days in Northern Italy.   During the trip we will

be visiting cheese and chocolate factories, a culinary university, and attending cooking lessons. Our salt is just one of the fundraising efforts that we are using to help students make the trip. Our salts are available through our website, www. gulfcoastsaltworks.com, by contacting us through our Facebook page, and it can also be bought at the Blue Heron Gift Store on Back Beach Road in the Publix Plaza on Panama City Beach, Florida. With more Bay County locations available soon.

 

By Paul Ashman  Photos by Savannah Jane Photography

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