Dessert at Last: Interview with Chef Paul Albrecht
By Val Schoger
– Atlanta Magazine described him as an iconic chef known for his modesty, professionalism, and good humor. Southern Seasons Magazine called him a legend. Zagat named him the godfather of Atlanta cuisine. He was seen on Discovery Channel’s “Great Chefs,” and he has orchestrated dining experiences for personalities, stars, and royalty.
Chef Paul Albrecht has remained humble. With a traditional German culinary education and more than 40 years of culinary excellence in several of the most exclusive hotels and resorts in Europe and the United States and later with his own fine dining restaurants, “Pano’s and Paul’s,” and “Paul’s,” he has made his mark on the culinary industry.
Pushing retirement musings aside, he recently agreed to help excel the restaurant operations at the completely revamped Panama City Holiday Inn, owned by former business partners and friends, the Hilton family. With a new Mediterranean-inspired restaurant and lounge, the Bellini Cafè, aptly named for the sparkling Italian cocktail, offers much inspiration for Chef Paul’s creations.
During our interview, he shares wisdom sprinkled with humor accompanied by a large batch of delicious desserts that inevitably is our takeaway.
PC Living: In a recent newspaper article you admitted to having a sweet tooth.
Chef Albrecht: That’s right. I have always had a love for sweets. I remember my mother baking delicious Viennese pastries. I started an apprenticeship in Austria at a young age, I was 14. The chef had me work in the pastry shop for the first six months. I was excited about the job. To this day, I love making pastries, breads, and special cakes.
PC Living: Who is the most famous person you have made dessert for?
Chef Albrecht: It was chocolate mousse cake for John McEnroe. It was his 40th birthday.
PC Living: Which are your preferred ingredients or recipes and what are your plans for the Valentine’s Day dessert menu?
Chef Albrecht: The hot soufflés are not any longer in vogue. Here in Florida I like to use citrus fruits, perhaps, and fresh fruits. For Valentine’s, obviously, everyone likes Crème Brulee and my specials include a Crème Brulee, heart shaped, with a pistachio crunch and raspberries. We will also have a chocolate hazelnut cake with raspberry sorbet. Another favorite of mine is the almond cookie basket with fresh fruit, Grand Marnier and raspberry sauce and lastly, we have a strawberry napoleon with thin layers of almond cookies and whipping cream and we will also have a few gluten free choices.
PC Living: With your European culinary training, do you ever follow old original recipes?
Chef Albrecht: After all these years in America, I adapted to the American taste for desserts and offer lighter desserts, perhaps. I rarely prepare traditional German cakes. The chocolate hazelnut cake for Valentine’s Day is inspired by a European recipe; it is based on an Italian hazelnut buttercream. I combine Italian and American influences at Bellini Café.
PC Living: In today’s culinary scene you see plenty of celebrity chefs who open restaurants all over the world, like Gordon Ramsay and Wolfgang Puck… but they can’t personally be there…
Chef Albrecht: First, it’s not one big thing to run a restaurant or kitchen. It’s a thousand little things, A thousand details. I think to succeed in the industry, it should be one’s passion. When I last talked to my son in Atlanta – he is also culinary trained, he said, “Passion’s not good enough. You’ve got to have obsession.” That’s what you do. You obsess on something, and insist, and that can kill you, too, I guess. I remember when I started culinary school at a young age, in Germany, when I was 14 – 15, they combined two classes, and 50% of the students failed. Couldn’t make it.
PC Living: That must have prepared you for life. Was it very strict?
Chef Albrecht: I’m talking about way back. It was harsh, the apprenticeship was long. When my kids were growing up, I would tell them stories from my days in culinary school and they didn’t quite believe me. I have four sons, and one decided to follow in my footsteps. He went to culinary school in Munich at a young age. A few weeks into his training, he gave me a call and said, “Dad, nothing has changed.” He found out for himself how tough culinary school in Germany is. He spent nine years in Germany and worked in the famed Bayerischer Hof in Munich as sous chef.
PC Living: When you eat desserts, which are your favorites?
Chef Albrecht: (Laughs) I like the cream desserts but try to stay away from them. I like the German “Vanillekipferl” and strudel. I love apple tarts and apple strudel.
PC Living: Do you see preferences in what Floridian guests prefer in comparison to your Atlanta guests?
Chef Albrecht: A little bit, but not really. We do a big display on Sunday for brunch and there is something for every taste. Our guests come from all over, especially Georgia, and we get very good comments. In general, after a big meal, you would prefer a small portion of dessert. It’s pretty much the same way in Georgia. I cannot see a big difference.
PC Living: Would you say Panama City is getting a “big city” feel with the Bellini Café offering such a different dining experience?
Chef Albrecht: I think I can bring a lot of my “big city” experience to the table as a manager. I am still refining the menu and I try to adapt to the local preferences. A restaurant with a nice ambiance and excellent food in a hotel is something that’s seen in big cities, yes.
PC Living: You have a fan base and your guests keep coming back and are following you around…
Chef Albrecht: Oh, I think I like to stay humble. I built my reputation many years ago and won plenty of awards and medals… what to do with them… hang them on the wall? (laughs) I let my kids play with them when they were little… I think it’s important to go forward and, just like 30 or 40 years ago, I am a hands-on chef. I like to teach. I work with the young chefs hands on.
The Bellini Cafe is located on 2001 N Cove Blvd, Panama City (inside the Holiday Inn).